MILAN, Oct 3, 2002/ FWD/ --- Designer Miuccia Prada is in an optimistic mood at Miu Miu, still the most influential "second" line of any Milan fashion house.

Though Prada's America's Cup boat got off to a losing start on the night before the show, beaten in its opening race in the Louis Vuitton Cup by Oracle BMW, the house was in an upbeat mood Tuesday at its flirty -- and even risqué -- Miu Miu presentation.

With the yachting action taking place in New Zealand, designer Miuccia loaded her collection with dashes of China and hints of Hawaii.

"More playful, yes, and with a Chinese touch," she remarked backstage after the show.

The second half of the collection consisted mostly of silken tunics and tops with Asian symbols, held together with Chinese clasps.

The Miu Miu gal is certainly chic -- and headed for a beach party -- with big plastic flowers doubling as hair clips, belts and necklaces and blown-up floral prints used in short skirts and Bermuda shorts.

This collection also boasted the most influential footwear looks of the Italian season.

The Miu Miu atelier dreamed up some brilliantly revamped ballet slippers, composed in snakeskin made to look like small leaves, for an effect that was romantic and certain to be a bestseller.

Dry cotton parkas with puffed-up raglan sleeves, curvy minis with huge waistbands and tunics that morphed into dresses all showed the designer stretching the idea of fashion with inventive silhouettes.

And if anyone still harbored doubts about the new mood at Miu Miu, he or she only had to listen to the show's soundtrack.

"Something I've got that makes your pants wet," moaned one female voice over the speakers, driving home the huge leap that Miu Miu has taken from the governess looks of recent vintages.

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