Raf Simons In Inspired Form
By Karl Treacy
(Photos by Gruber-FWD)
PARIS, Feb 1, 2003/ FWD/ --- "I used to think that the day would never come," sang New
Order’s Bernard Sumner.
It was a coincidental lyric but a good reflection on a collection, in which Raf Simons,
after several infuriating and angst-ridden seasons, finally came good.
In switching musical inspiration the Belgian designer has left behind politically-charged
bands like The Manic Street Preachers in favor of ‘80s favorites like New Order and Joy
Division.
The latter owe their visual imagery to the pioneering and influential British graphic
designer Peter Saville, whose work Simons referenced in the collection.
Simons wore this visual imagery lightly on his sleeve - where appeared a small personal
retro logo - alluding to it in a square print on the front of a hooded sweatshirt, or on
the back of a leather blouson.
Gone are the hooded faces of urban guerillas, and in their place Simons reminded everyone
of his accomplished tailoring skills with a perhaps too long procession of strong shouldered,
double-breasted, sleek wool coats in gray, black, cream, red, and oatmeal tweed.
He cuts a great suit with easy, slouchy pants - sometimes in tone-on-tone Prince of
Wales check - teamed generally with polo necks, a printed hoodie or a wide-collared shirt.
It was all about a casually elegant look when slim sweaters, maybe woven with an ‘80s
constructivist pattern, came over soft pants and black plimsolls and the look was polished
off with a flat cap.
Simons’ signature love of the overlarge was demonstrated with baggy leather bomber
jackets and shearling coats some having seams in the shape of the Union Jack at the back.
One exceptional, and ordinary-sized, shearling jacket came in faded black with
adjuster tabs and a generous fold-over front.
In the current climate Simons has put his preoccupation with the evils of capitalism
on the backburner for a while, and shocked everyone by producing a collection that’s sure
to sell and sell.
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