LONDON, Sep 13, 2002/ FWD/ --- If anything, the bad rap that London Fashion Week has been subjected to lately is working in its favor.

Anna Wintour and her crew, and most major players on the British scene turned up to watch Russell Onan Sage's latest catwalk offering.

Whether this is good or bad for the designer, however, is another question.

Somerset born Sage, 33, is a fashion expressionist.

He has made interesting clothes from a parachute that he did a jump in, and from vintage union jack flags.

He customized Burberry raincoats in his first catwalk show and called it "So Sue Me."

His twin passions are statement making through clothes, antique fabrics and the old craft of dressmaking 'BF' or Before Fashion.

Sage doesn't manufacture his clothes.

Not even after seven seasons showing on the London catwalk.

The reason? He can't find anyone to do it.

Why? Most of his clothes are "difficult".

A papier mache swimsuit anyone?

How about a series of seven beautiful dresses in the colors of the rainbow, each suitable for the maiden of a Jousting Knight?

Lovely for sure, but some are made using 200 year old fabric scraps that almost disintegrate to the touch.

A noble gesture, but surely one better suited to a museum curator than a catwalk designer.

This collection entitled "Russell Sage is not Worth It, Charles Frederick Worth 1826-1895", did have some delightful pieces.

A starched high-waisted bell skirt made using jade green 18th century woven silk originally used as wall paneling, was beautiful and special, as were kimono inspired jackets in jewel silks.

But they are one-offs, and what's the use of that? Answers on a postcard.

And there were some pieces that COULD go into production.

He collaborated with Savile Row tailors Davies & Son on two perfect jackets that would be welcome in any wardrobe, and a £6000 jacket scattered with diamonds; Royal milliners Lock & Co provided felt skull caps.

These pieces should be made, sold and enjoyed.

"I'm trying to reinterpret vintage," he said after the show, "I want to echo the quality of the past. Really this collection has been like going back to school for me."

The collection was inspired by the early adventures of British Couturier Charles Worth who Sage describes as his current "hero".

Fans of his work will be pleased to know he has just signed a deal to design a range for Top Shop. It will be available in two months.