MILAN, Feb 20, 2006/ FW/ --- With a remix of the 1970s hit ‘Walk On By’ as background music, Graeme Black sent winter coats, minis, cocktail dresses and pantsuit sets on the runway that give the aura of 1960s elegance with 1980s elements converged into a totally modern and directional collection that just takes your breath away.

Elegance is fleeting and hard to capture, but through the years, the House of Salvatore Ferragamo has had it. This season, Graeme Black while keeping the spirit of the house also moved it forward focusing on innovative fabrics wherein Black played with weight, volume and texture.

A-line outer coats that were constructed with pleats in the back, giving it fluidity while keeping its architectural structure; mini accordion pleats that turn into lattice work were seen in skirts and dresses, while knits that were lace-like were turned into empire dresses with scalloped hemlines and sleeves that puff right at the crook of the elbow.

Historical Salvatore Ferragamo shoes were retrofitted with modern embellishments while giant totes and handbags and tiny evening purses accompanied every exit, making the catwalk also a platform of what made the brand famous.

The Ferragamo logo was seen in belts and in fabric prints, but Black did not make it into a logofest. Using it sparingly in pencil cut skirts and coats, it became a talisman, making sure that it is recognizable without overdoing it.

The 1980s oval silhouette was seen in empire dresses rolled at the hem made modern with new fabrics such as mohair lacy knits and new weight give to taffeta, making them the must-have cocktail dresses for fall. But the ostrich feather mini paired with a sleeveless knit top competes for attention, too.

Fur coats are no longer for women over 40 if Graeme Black has his way. Constructed with oversized standing collars and wide sleeves while the bodice remained slim, the fur coat was made for the Gen X and Gen Y to appreciate.

Salvatore Ferragamo

Salvatore Ferragamo

Salvatore Ferragamo

Salvatore Ferragamo