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Viktor & Rolf: Theatrical As Ever
By: Godfrey Deeny
Photos by Gruber-FWD
Mar 12, 2002/ FWD/ --- In the rarefied world where fine art and fashion merge, Viktor & Rolf
have carved themselves a unique niche.
Their sense of the theatrical and multi-media possibilities of a catwalk show is second to
none.
Saturday evening in Paris, it was a real privilege to witness their fall 2002 show, which
used video imagery and sound almost ecstatically.
As the models stepped out onto the raised catwalk in the Pavillon Gabriel’s tiny, cramped
bunker, video cameras projected their images onto two screens with details of the garments
replaced with sampled images.
Thus dreamlike images of cliffs and seagulls were caught on a scarf, or Manhattan rush hour
spied on boots as dolphins swam in checkered sweaters.
Eventually, as we moved to evening, only the model’s head was shown, as her silhouette became
a huge burst of clouds.
The sense of awe was heightened by the soundtrack, which felt like a brand new film score
for an intense epic melodrama.
The clothes themselves were formal, elegant, Russian imperial and military, and frequently
came in black-blue with harlequin patterns.
Lean black suits were fluidly cut, and military jackets with pockets at the biceps had
great noblesse.
And the finale was something else -– an all-blue outfit of hussar cargo pants and boots
with an amazing futuristic multi-pocketed combat jacket that gave Karolina Kurkova the
silhouette of Arnold Schwarzenegger.
To loud applause, the designers took their bow in blue velvet soutains, poised, proud, like
science figure heroes who have just glimpsed a New World.
Viktor & Rolf
Viktor & Rolf
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