Viktor & Rolf -- A Dutch Treat in Florence
By Kim Coston
Photos courtesy of Viktor & Rolf-FWD
FLORENCE, Jan 12, 2003/ FWD/ --- Exhibiting their famous penchant for the theatrical, creative Dutch team and "wunderkind" of fashion, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren (aka Viktor & Rolf), premičred their fall 2003 menswear collections Thursday in Florence, Italy.
From the drawn-out operatic chant of the words "Viktor and Rolf," to the techno-trance beat accompaniment and choreography of the show, the audience was captivated by sight and sound.
Explaining their inspiration for the show, Viktor said, "We have designed things that we really like, that we want to wear and we can't find in stores."
Having impressed the fashion world with their creativity in women's clothing since 1995, Viktor & Rolf's menswear collection has been eagerly anticipated.
"Introducing men's was integral to the development of our brand," Viktor added.
The dynamic Dutch duo chose the magnificent former train station, Stazione Leopolda, as their venue and created a quirky but strikingly effective launch show. Both designers, accompanied by four somberly dressed models, started at opposite ends of the long runway and met in the middle, which was intersected by a smaller crosswalk. There they were able to face all four directions of the audience and performed side-by-side antics.
"We like to play with the traditional rules of fashion shows. They have become such dogma," Rolf explained. "We have even tap-danced in one of our women's shows to entertain," he said.
The new men's line is just the right mix of classical and sporty style. Covering a range of fabrics, colors were dominated by signature blacks and grays, but spiked with some prints. Altogether, there were 35 pieces of "classic but not boring," menswear.
Viktor & Rolf's men's collection is surely less avant-garde than what they have formerly been known for. The wild stylings and cuts of women's couture have been replaced by sleek lines and fine tailoring with the promise of elegance, but also of fun.
Viktor & Rolf were quick to point out their black sealing wax logo, discretely positioned on all the garments, a take on the pair's own signet rings.
Thursday also marked the opening day of the 63rd annual Pitti Uomo menswear trade show. From here, buyers and journalists will scurry off to Milan for two more intense weeks of non-stop men's fashion shows.
And to show that the fruits of their labor paid off, Viktor & Rolf provided welcoming entertainment for their guests and themselves after a successful men's collection launch.
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