Viktor & Rolf -- Can Models Dance?
By Melanie Rickey
Photos by Gruber-FWD
PARIS, Oct 7, 2002/ FWD/ --- They can vamp it up for the catwalk, but can models dance?
At Dutch duo Viktor & Rolf’s fashion show we found out. V&R don’t generally do run of the
mill exit, pose, turn shows. This time they opted for a Rio Carnival presentation.
Models exploded onto the catwalk and swirled, shimmied, twirled, shook their little tushes
and waved their arms, some of them even raved complete with facial mugging – in the most
smart, colorful, positively blooming collection of the week. Just what the editors – many
of whom have now come down with the notorious "fashion flu" – needed.
So what were Viktor & Rolf up to exactly? The designers have discovered hot house flowers
and print for the first time, and say they are intent on loosening up the fashion show format.
In fact, they are in the midst of researching their first real perfume with L’Oreal that
launches in 2004.
"We have been inspired by the strong emotions evoked by fragrance, and we have become
intoxicated by flowers, so we wanted to intoxicate the public," Viktor Horsting told FWD.
The first outfit, a full length parakeet colored circular party dress, seemed straight from
Mike Leigh’s film “Abigail’s Party.”
Then Omahyra, from the Dominican Republic, proved she had Latin spirit as she worked
a chic white crepe shirtwaister dress with delicate Wedgwood blue florals dotted all over.
She can dance.
So can Brazilian Caroline Ribeiro, who worked her first look, a pink ruffle front wrap blouse
with matching straight pink tailored pants piped in black, like a true Carnival queen.
The clothes were classic V&R all the way through.
The collection was high on their smart but subversive tailoring.
Smart suit jackets had ruffley silk/satin floral blouses exploding from the neck, cuffs and
waist.
The military stripe running along the outside seam of black or pink trousers – some cut
jogging pant style in crepe - was a ragged chiffon ruffle.
A frock coat trouser suit popped with tropical flowers against black.
The same floral against black was worked into sexy silk crepe wrap dress secured with shiny
black ribbon.
Of course there were also a selection of great tuxedos too, and smart black Chanel
inspired skirt suits, some exploding with black roses at the neck and shoulder.
V&R addressed evening attire rather well this time with chic high glam dresses of black
concertina pleats with matching capes, tiered Southern belle frocks in pink and a full
length backless mint column with a ruffle neck, again tied with that black ribbon.
So, can the models dance? Alek Wek can do the African shuffle like a dream.
Karen Elson, in typical British style, can boogie and make silly faces, like the best ravers.
She has obviously been to Ibiza, as has Rie Rasmussen.
Brazilian Ana Claudia missed out on the dancing gene her country men are gifted with.
Karolina Kurkova can do exaggerated cabaret moves only, and Erin O’ Connor is a born diva.
Post show, the exuberant mood was summed up thus by Andre Leon Talley of American Vogue:
"Viktor! Rolf! We’ve been waiting for this for decades. Decades!"
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