PARIS, Feb 26, 2007/ FW/ --- Eight tubes of metallic scaffolding, four tungsten lights and two loudspeakers over the head plus one pylon holding the structure in the middle of the shoulders was the minimal harness with which each model walked the runway to present the Viktor & Rolf pręt-ŕ-porter for the season.

Celebrating individuality was certainly the key inspiration for this high-concept collection where each model was equipped to be a runway show of her own, carrying individual music and lights as she advanced.

One could not help but imagine the invisible steel rigs under the clothes and feel sorry for the poor girls who all had obviously been asked not to move or bend their arms to give themselves more balance, even when taking the dangerous U-turn in front of the photographers. I was about to forget mentioning that this heavy gear was all meant to be supported on the ground by two Dutch traditional wooden clogs with stiletto heels to make it all easier and more comfy!

Apart from the distracting and uneasy presentation that the audience was partly embarrassed to watch, the clothes were rather peaceful, in the soft tones inspired by Dutch folklore. Of course, the designers also used the scaffolding as a display feature for oversized pieces.

Often tied with knots to the railings as they were, we all wondered how the shirts or coat collars would look like without the structure, just worn on human shoulders. Pleats and creative folds in the Viktor & Rolf tradition of tailoring were particularly present on some disproportioned collars. A red coat was illuminated from under, some trains and extended dress or skirt sides were also tied to the railings on both sides or at the back for a strange curtain effect.

I could not help but think: in which galaxy do the Dutch have a colony where they can wear these attires that seem perfect for a sci-fi vision of a royal court? As the scaffoldings got bigger, the expressions on the girls’ faces grew more doubtful as to the question: were they going to make it al the way on their perilous return trip from the backstage area without falling or breaking their neck?

As the show went on, their silhouettes evoked more and more the printed postcards of long ago, embroidered with fabrics to depict with more detail the beauty of regional folkloric costumes. After the presentation, another image invaded my mind: the close to sadistic way in which costumed dolls used to be pinned in their boxes in souvenir shops to display all the beauty of their regional outfits.

It can be feared that the applause at the end of the show was more addressed to the models than to the designers themselves, who took their bow with no scaffolding whatsoever over their heads and in plain sneakers.

Fantasy in the designing duo’s runway shows had taken previously more gallant ways, and the unhealthy staging of their presentation prevented from fully seeing the clothes which, in most cases, were certainly too theatrical to be literally ready-to-wear.

Viktor & Rolf

Viktor & Rolf

Viktor & Rolf

Viktor & Rolf