Y's -- Latest Incarnation of Yohji's Imagination
By Godfrey Deeny
(Photos by Gruber-FWD)
PARIS, Mar 6, 2003/ FWD/ --- If Werner Herzog or Lars Von Trier ever remake John Ford’s "Playboy of the Western World," and set the action in the Atlas Mountains, they should dress the actors in this Y’s collection.
The source of this collection was Yamamoto’s fertile imagination, but the clothes themselves were redolent of exotic locales and determined, self-assured women. Artistically inclined too -- from the top of her tie-dyed hair to the tip of her funky little boxing sneakers.
Set in a huge North Paris tent used for rock concerts, and staged on an immense white square, as if for a gymnastics display, the fall winter Y’s collection opened with a series of wonderful woolen looks, where the contrasting weaves, cables, and crochets looked exotic.
Knee-length cardigans, tops that were blouses at the back and four foot long shirts at the front, and huge pullovers that ballooned like eggplants, were just some of the novel shapes in a collection that looked both comfortable and cool.
"I was thinking wide and baggy," said Yohji, waving his hands in circles as he dragged keenly on a post-show cigarette.
Using leather belts as a collar trim and finishing the sleeves of black woolen safari jackets and double-breasted coats with crocheted fringes that ended with immense tassels were some of the designer’s other clever tricks.
"I hate war. I hate to struggle. I wish I was born at a time when war wasn’t necessary," pleaded a woman (maybe Kiki Smith?) on the soundtrack.
Her words seem apt, as almost alone among designers, Yamamoto is able to make clothes that give polish and protection to a woman.
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