PARIS, Feb 26, 2006/ FW/ --- Yohji Yamamoto always follows his own drumbeat and this season was not an exception sending supersized coats, jackets, pants and dresses that bucked the ‘slim’ trend of the season.

The collection was all based in menswear, but instead of building on the western look that he previewed last January for men’s clothing, Yamamoto he started a new path, which turned out to be a trailblazer.

Wide-legged pants that were sometimes cuffed at the hem were wide enough for two. But don’t think of palazzo pants of the 1970s. Think Yohji Yamamoto wherein volume and layering with a fabric swing is the key, the trouser waist bulging with a loose fold at the front.

Double-breasted jackets were oversized to the point that the shoulders actually lower than where should be. It was cut on the side where the natural waist would be so that one can actually put their hands on their pockets.

With the fabric treated in such a way that there would be a sharp color fade, it turned out to be a black & white ensemble for the whole suit without seams where the colors meet.

The traveling cloak was also supersized. Swathing the model’s body, you just get a feeling that you will never be cold next winter.

Accessories of choice – hats and more hats, big enough to hold two heads at times! There’s a mysterious bent to it. And though chances are most women will wear it for fashion’s sake, it can actually protect you from the rain, snow and sun with its wide brim.

To show off the female form (it was hidden under the voluminous clothing), embedded belts were used. Cinched with a buckle, it actually emphasized the natural waist.

Speaking of emphasis, the finale was memorable. Keeping the tempo of oversized men’s clothing on women, Yohji Yamamoto created a corset-like top made of strips of fabrics that were evenly place like horizontal slats. It looked more like ninja armor than a corset.

Calling it sexy will be both an understatement and a misnomer. Call it a work of art that can actually be worn without the bad taste in your mouth left by the term ‘wearable art.’

Yohji Yamamoto

Yohji Yamamoto

Yohji Yamamoto

Yohji Yamamoto