Yohji Yamamoto Menswear Fall 2005
Paris Menswear Show Fall 2005
Yohji Yamamoto: Precious, Particular & Functional
By Michelle Taylor
Photos by FW
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PARIS, Jan 30, 2005/ FW/ – Yohji Yamamoto is a master craftsman, designer, publisher and artist, so it is no surprise that his menswear autumn winter 2005/06 collection pushes the boundaries and idea of a masculine wardrobe to new levels.
Yamamoto is one of the very few who can put a man in a knit dress or pleated skirt and make them look as elegant and charming as if they were wearing a formal tuxedo. Perhaps it is the exotic idea that his heritage is diverse, or the fact that his sartorial knowledge simply offers something different without becoming a rainbow of eccentricity.
Details are not only precious and particular, but also functional. Pockets are deep or external and trousers are roomy for comfort that gather at the ankle or slim and tailored, while shirts pluckets are colored in plaid to avoid the formality of ties.
Elastic runs horizontally along jackets for a snugger fit accentuating the waist. Yamamoto cuts male garment rules in half, giving away with full shirts and leaving only the top half bolero style, fits mini elastic corsets high on the waist over pants and under jackets and frays edges revealing leather detailing on overcoats.
Geometrical quilt print and the occasional ecru piece give light to an otherwise subtle palette.
In a combination of customized cuts and oriental delicacies Yamamoto delivers a collection of soft beauty and reflective dressing for a man who desires gentlemanly difference with an unprejudiced attitude.
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