Yohji Yamamoto Menswear Fall 2006: Wyatt Earp Has Never Looked This Hip & Chic
Paris Menswear Show Fall 2006
By Mari Davis
Photos by FW
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PARIS, Jan 27, 2006/ FW/ --- When Yohji Yamamoto does the Wild West, he throws away the conventional prairie looks, takes the elements that make the Wild West unique, reinterprets them for the modern world to come up with hip and chic silhouettes while keeping the romance of that bygone era.
From cowboys to Native Americans even the Union soldiers, all of them made their ‘appearance’ in the collection in formats that are recognizable, yet far detached from the original.
The Union soldiers markings – the stars, the epaulets and medals were turned into embellishments of oversized coat jackets cut like coattails. Think of Kevin Costner in ‘Dances With Wolves’ and Eddie Vedder of Pearl Jam morphed into one person.
But, there is no vintage store shopping here. All the silhouettes are new and the version is refreshing. Case in point, the dress uniform of the Union solder that is double breasted and full of buttons in the original. Yohji’s take – a white shirt with blue pleated straps folded in the middle opened and sewn in the shirt’s placket, then held in place with big white buttons at the ends.
The cowboy is today’s rock star wearing shirts with animal prints, riding coats that are oversized and sometimes hooded, the hat still angled rakishly on his head, the trousers loose fitting. Wyatt Earp has never looked this hip and chic!
Of course, it is the cowboy that took center stage. His ‘necktie’ usually make of braided leather with chrome aglets just became strings of fabric braided in the beginning, then allowed to cascade like fringes.
Speaking of fringes, as a tribute to the Native Americans, Yohji put them on suit jackets and outdoor coats, with sizes ranging from mini to oversized. Taking a strip of fabric or leather, folding them in half, with both ends attached to the edge of the coat, the ‘fringe’ became structured instead of cascading down.
And, no cowboy boots here! Yohji shod his cowboys and Indians in sportive sneakers / trainers. Now, how cool is that?
Innovative, out of the ordinary and simply handsome, no one can say no to this collection at all, even the hard-core cowboys in Texas.
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