Yohji Yamamoto: Androgynous and Stylish
By Michelle Taylor
(Photo by IndigitalTV)
PARIS, Jun 29, 2003/ FW/ --- The Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto presented both his
Yamamoto and Y's mens spring summer 2004 collections yesterday in Paris.
For Yamamoto a refined beautiful piecing together of light flowing elements,
while the more sportive line of Y's has a slight western influence where
mixing creates the new young casual man.
Yamamoto is an elegant reworking of the male gender, in a society where he is both
androgynous and stylish, so much so that the designer makes it possible for
a man to wear a long flowing skirt with class while maintaining his masculinity.
Jackets are both tailored and slimline, long and spacious.
A sight of east meets west in the use of collarless shirts, ultra high tech fabrics,
asymmetrical closures and pockets such as side lacing and large wrap around skirts and
pants tied at the waist reminiscent of the obi.
Contrasting colour schemes of almost an all black and white collection except
for flashes of red and blue for a shiney bomber jacket and shirts with oriental
poster graphics.
Suit jackets are rolled up to the sleeve exposing the long
sleeve shirt beneath, knit is tight and loose mixed to create patterns on
long comfortable sweaters and vests and heavy knit cardigans are exchangeable
for short tailored jackets.
Y's is a stylist's dream with shirts are worn in anyway imaginable from being
tied in the from, worn backwards, ties at the chest creating a strapless
corset and being dragged along the floor.
Tartan in red and black and yellow and black recall the west, as do baggy
overalls.
Pants are comfortable but not excessively wide, stripes are a
common theme as is layering of tanks that lace up on the side over shirts.
Fabrics are mixed to create pants and jackets for the man who wants to be
free in creating his personal style by mixing and matching how he chooses.
Colours range from yellow, red, black, fading blue denim, brown and blues.
Yohji Yamamoto arrived in Paris over 20 years ago, and still with his radical
cuts mixed with western influence, his clothes are about individuality and
continue to make a statement.
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