Yohji Yamamoto Spring 2006: Master Construction of Tuxedos & Gowns
Paris Pręt-á-Porter (Paris Women's Ready-To-Wear) Spring 2006
By Mari Davis
Photos by Giovanni Pucci
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PARIS, Oct 2, 2005/ FW/ --- Following his very successful and much lauded Y-3 show in New York, Yohji Yamamoto opened the Paris season with a predominantly eveningwear collection created in his imitable style.
It must be the season of tuxedos in Paris as Collette, the hippest store at rue Saint Honoré currently features female mannequins in tuxedos while the Yves Saint Laurent Museum recently changed its exhibit to show the design master’s tuxedos all created for women.
Sunday night, Yohji Yamamoto threw his hat in the circle by opening with an ultra modern rendition of the tuxedo with a white shirt with a wide black placket ending in the collar then morphing into a tie.
The trousers were loose fitting, and also loosely sheered at the waist, the tailcoat was square ended, and the coup de grace, the model was wearing sneakers! Ah, to go to a party shod comfortably and not to worry about those high stilettos.
Trust Yohji Yamamoto to do with aplomb and for everyone to love it! Because truly, the six tuxedo ensembles put front and center Yamamoto’s innovative genius as he had denim jumpers paired with tailcoat and made the cravat huge or the bow oversized.
Camouflage became a fashion statement instead of militaristic as they were made into ruffled frocks and wide-legged pants ending in bellbottoms.
Tailored outfits were made feminine with supersized ruffles. Still, the last ten silhouettes were Yamamoto explored construction and showed his mastery of tailoring techniques with the one-shouldered gowns and the most memorable piece, the white wedding dress with water hose sized piping wrapped around the models neck and then morphing into a braided string of the same size, to become the bridal bouquet.
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