PARIS, Jun 29, 2007/ FW/ --- While other designers are trying to figure out the future of men’s fashion, Yohji Yamamoto took an opposite step and looked into his own archives that dates back to the 1980s and succeeded giving a fresh look!

When Yohji Yamamoto burst into the Paris fashion scene in the early 1980s, he was truly ahead of his time. Yamamoto's use of black fabrics and flat shoes, with garments which are layered, loose and flowing seemed anti-aesthetic to the Parisian looks of pinched silhouettes.

Yamamoto, who was then designing only for Japanese women, thought of their comfort first and foremost. What he did not realize and of course, the fashionistas of that time was that Yamamoto’s style provided a new approach to the body, thus creating a new silhouette.

Later, that innovative process was translated into menswear. And, last Thursday, his inventiveness was re-introduced to a whole new generation of fashionistas, with a very pleasant surprise. Even the old hands in fashion find the looks refreshing!

That there are military uniforms elements cannot be denied. But, if it said to be military inspired, that statement could still be argued. Because though there are the requisite pea coats and BDUs, including epaulets and chevrons, the rendition of the accepted military insignias is more towards pop culture than the establishment.

The silhouettes are generous, with more than ample room for movement. The military utility trousers were converged with carpenter pants resulting to a new functional wear that features lots of pockets in the most unexpected places like in front of the thighs.

For those who like to keep a slim figure, Yamamoto created a ‘zippered’ pant leg that actually changes the form of the trousers depending on whether the zippers are close or open.

Sometimes, the crotch is low, a definite nod to streetwear or sportswear, depending on with whom you are speaking with. The skateboarders and snowboarders will call them ‘sportswear’ while the city bound would call it street wear.

There was a phrase on one of the shirts, ‘I Shall Be Released’. Whether it was meant for the doves that were embroidered or screen-printed on the shirts and jackets, perhaps a euphuism for peace or freedom. Maybe, it was meant for the ‘military influence’ wherein recruits actually wait for the day when their contracts end and they can be ‘released’ from service.

It can even be philosophical for all we know. Whatever it is, this collection is arguably one of the best that Yohji Yamamoto had shown compared to the recent past. It is also safe to say that this is one of the most inventive and truly inspiring collections of the season.