Yohji Yamamoto's Playful Denim Mood
Written by: Godfrey Deeny
Photos by Gruber-FWD
Click on image to see bigger photo.
Paris, Jun 30, 2001/ FWD/ --- Few things underlined fashion’s current obsession with denim as much as the
Yohji Yamamoto men’s collection Saturday in Paris.
After a Milan season crammed with ripped, embroidered and paint-splattered denim, Yamamoto took a new angle
by using denim of distinctive textures in Edwardian-style outfits for groovy gentlemen, with frock coats and
double- breasted redingotes.
But the big idea of the collection was an homage to the legendary Japanese director Yasujiro Ozu, as Yohji
featured ‘50s movie poster images of beautiful Asian film stars on a score of outfits.
Several of these looks
were executed with virtuosity, like a sensational double-layer fine semi-transparent mesh shirt with the movie
star’s face on the inside.
A draped wool jacket whose crest was an image of a girl laying on the grass reading
a magazine, a chambray suit with an acid-dyed column, and some intriguing jackets with one side double-breasted
and the other side single, underlined the master’s technical skill.
While legendary among fashion cognoscenti, Yohji, the designer’s designer, has never become as internationally
famous as some lesser talents.
Ironically Yohji’s skill has, in a way, prevented him from becoming more widely
known.
The fact is that Yamamoto’s ideas are so technically complicated, they are hard to copy.
|
