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Yohji Yamamoto Menswear Fall 2001: Yohji Got Gangsters on His Mind Again
Paris Menswear Show Fall 2001 By Godfrey Deeny Photos by FW
PARIS, Jan 26, 2001/ --- Last year he dressed a reenactment of a bloody yakuza gun fest, shot in Los Angeles.
This year "Pepe Le Moko," the 1937 French classic that starred Jean Gabin as a gangster in the Algiers Casbah,
inspired Yohji Yamamoto’s collection.
"I was thinking of a tough French yakuza," smiled Yohji afterwards. Yohji’s wise guys like black, loosely cut velvet or corduroy suits with exposed seams over silver protective nylon vests, set off by tartan tam-o’-shanters. His take on the military mania that’s swept the European collections recalled Napoleonic gunners in frock coats composed of marvelous Japanese wool in sunset reds. Yamamoto invented a great new look for the modern yakuza – charcoal or black suits in rich Aran Island wool. Out on the prowl the dons don eight-button tweed coats with swirling collars or black calico jackets with jacquard lapels. Yamamoto’s are like works in progress. He always shows in central rue Saint Martin maison (this time in silence). And he invariably pokes fun at facile fashion trends, rendering his hitmen absurdly effete by giving them semi-precious jewels, medals and chains. Sayonara, baby.
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