PARIS, Jan 22, 2002/ --- One of the more interesting strategies to developing a prestigious brand is being put into action at Bottega Veneta, the classy Venetian label acquired by the Gucci Group last year.

Somewhat daringly, Gucci has embarked on exactly the opposite approach of the one normally adopted to reenergize a brand famed for its beautiful accessories. Traditionally, new owners hire a designer and stage a fashion show to develop a ready-to-wear business and garner editorial coverage.

Inside the Bottega Veneta store

Gucci has taken a different path, eschewing catwalk shows for the foreseeable future and concentrating on developing new ideas in baggage, footwear and home products. This month in Milan, Bottega Veneta presented its latest offerings for men, created by BV's new creative director, Thomas Maier, and the results were impressive to say the least.

Inside the Bottega Veneta store

Under Maier, BV is producing clever, instant classics that a decade from now will probably still look chic.

Starting with the shoes, this season there is a rather wonderful elongated Concorde collection in noble calf leather, and some spectacular suede boots influenced by the dashing cowboys of the Camargue.

Inside the Bottega Veneta store

Maier, a highly regarded Austrian designer who has done stints with Hermes and Sonia Rykiel Homme as well as launched his own successful swimwear line, has cleverly united BV's excellent artisans with his own new ideas. One great example of this is the remarkable "roll-up" loafers that fold up into the size of a small fist, yet are very comfortable.

BV also showed some brilliant weekend bags, which, because they are made of deerskin, are both durable and light - an important consideration for weekends in the Hamptons.

Other standouts include collector's item three-button deerskin blazers, post-bags with comfortable straps, woven leather belts that were both easy and edgy, clever coin holders for the recently launched Euro and chic bowties in BV's famed intreciato (woven) leather.

Inside the Bottega Veneta store

The collection's key color is ebano, or Italian ebony, though coffee, dark yellows and beige are also apparent. The BV logo is so discreet as to be almost non-existent, living up to the house's philosophy that your own initials should be enough. Prices are fairly steep - ranging from $600 for the roll-up loafers to $3,500 for a limited-edition floppy Cabas bag.

BV, whose beautiful bags and shoes have been worn by Jodie Foster, Sharon Stone and Queen Sophia of Spain, has clearly benefited from Maier's insights. However, the brand's policy of communicating via its products does lead to some arcane policies.

Journalists were not allowed to photograph the products and had to use "approved" vignettes of the clothes and accessories. Critics could not interview the gentlemanly Maier, though he's known as an erudite fellow.

Moreover, while the new collection was impressive, there was a slight scent of smugness in the air at BV's converted-garage Milan headquarters.

One staffer at BV actually told reporters, that the label "would not repeat the same mistakes as Hermes." One can only wish BV luck in avoiding the alleged "mistakes" of Hermes, one of the classiest multi-product brands on the planet, and a house that wracked up double-digit increases in sales and profits throughout the last decade.

Or, as Gore Vidal used to say, it looks as if our old friend Hugh Bris is back in town.