Transcontinental and intergenerational, the wardrobe well travelled lurches into the present – tempered, magnified and distorted through an irreverent lens. Staples, classics, archetypes, keystone garments, all are revisted in lurching volumes (with swag) and a purposeful play on anonymity.
Tropes are borrowed from urban uniform and dissected, as banker shirts, military coats, fireman’s sweaters and bomber jackets are re-jigged with massive, shrunken or shredded proportions. Shirt collars are so tiny they fall off the shoulders and hoodies cocoon at the back, thanks to necklines displaced.
Outerwear sleeves lurch forwards, creating slouched silhouettes with a crunchy linen trench, felted overcoats and a raglan Mackintosh. Extended eartly quilted ‘doudoune’ parkas and a shearling carcoat become almost operatic.
Down below, horsehair suit trousers, motocross pants and fluted skirts with dangerous splits cling barely to the hips. Floral tea dresses are somewhat more austere, wrenched apart with bands of sweatshirt jersey, which alongside flame patterned platforms, lumberjack flannels and extreme Cuban heels erupt the western spirit in Lynchian disarray.
Photos courtesy of Vetements