The Missoni Man A/W 2020 collection, unveiled during Milan Fashion Week Men, is a composed extemporization of inflections, embellishments and forward momentums that takes its cue from the evolving jazz scenes of the ‘70s and ‘80s; a period of cultural fusions, liberal vibrations, and an unabashed glamour and eclectic bohemianism that spanned eras and genres.
Through a collection of varying textures, volumes, patterns and color, this season epitomizes the rhythmic diversity of the music of the times in contemporary form, creating a uniquely improvised style that is cool, intense and as expansive as ever.
In unison, diverging elements erupt into harmonic performances of visual sounds to awake an array of emotions. Soft and delicate cashmere and cashmere-silk blends combine with alpaca, mohair, felted wool, brushed cotton and lamé blends to form a polyphonic ensemble of sharp, modernist cuts and voluminous, oversized silhouettes.
Vibrant color palettes in midnight blue and jade green, burnt amber and black, dark bourdeux and military green serve to bolster a continuously meandering melody, further enlivened by syncopated pops of agate yellow, powder pink and electric blue.
This season places an emphasis on voluminous, light and airy knitwear that feels more like outerwear pieces, with shawl-collar cardigans and bombers in animalesque patterns and patchwork-like jacquards or heritage multi-stitch jacquards from the Missoni Archives.
Other key pieces include: an oversized, softly-tailored, double-breasted coat in embroidered felted wool or backed loom-knit fabric; a caban coat with shearling shawl collar in a backed loom-knit fabric; a bomber in nappa leather with loom-knit inserts in lamé; a reversible car coat in a cotton and wool blend together with a viscose twill jacquard pattern that creates an ikat effect; a reversible hooded blouson; and shirting made in an exclusive cashmere pashmina fabric.
Generously-cut, over-dyed trousers are inspired by loose-fitting military trousers and created in a patchwork of varying stitches. A slick Chelsea boot and a revamped military boot, both in richly colorful exotic leathers, add that final articulation to a series of rhythmic pulses and crescendos.
This season’s rhapsodic collection becomes a panoply of instruments used to craft an individual style of improvised, nonchalant elegance.
Photos courtesy of Missoni