Calvin Klein Collection MF14 (13)

MILAN, Jan 13, 2014/ — For Fall 2014, Italo Zuchelli reinterpreted the most classic of a man’s wardrobe, playing with proportions and layers and thus proposing a modern urban workwear for the 21st century man.

With us going smack in the middle of the second decade of the new millennia, there is a feeling of change. And of course, since the world has never really fully recovered yet from the deep recession earlier this decade, the mood is to move forward.

With a new year, that feeling is intensified. Hence surprising, this new take in men’s dressing being proposed at Calvin Klein Collection is being noticed by many.

For Fall 2014, Mr Zuchelli created sportswear and outerwear pieces in masculine proportions, whether form-fitting or oversized, and then layered them throughout for highly textural combinations.

Richly weighted materials and skins – alpaca, brushed silk, embossed wool, double faced cashmere, and leather shearling – add depth and structure, while playing with volume. Technical and noble fabrics are mixed, seamed or pieced, bringing hard and soft, and matte and shine together on tops, jackets, and quilted pullovers.

Referencing more utilitarian workwear, bombers, overshirts and pullovers – in bonded or felted wool, cashmere or shearling – have been modernized into more sophisticated, urban versions of these classic silhouettes.

The cognac shearling leather bomber jacket or a generously oversized parka with a removable macro mesh lining and thick, matte finish zippers add an industrial touch. Pants are offered in two proportionate styles; as a loose two pleat style or a leaner, pencil pant.

Graphic sweatshirts that reference the heritage of the house employ iconic words from the vocabulary of the brand language.

Again, there is a dichotomy in the direction being taken. This dichotomy was also seen at Les Hommes and Versace. The steps in either direction are not tentative. But, one cannot help but think that the designers are hedging.

Just like Wall Street who does not want to put all their eggs in one basket because they are unsure where the market will take them, designers are taking a cue from their stock brokers.

Photos by Dan Lecca, courtesy of Calvin Klein Collection