Cedric Jacquemyn MS15 (1)PARIS, Jun 29, 2014/ — Illustrating his interest in the contradictory forces of disappearance and preservation, Cedric Jacquemyn’s new collection references the uncontacted tribes of the Amazon, particularly the ones around the Rondônia region of Brazil.

Ignoring the standardized discourse of globalization and remaining untouched by its ruthless logics, these tribes are nevertheless threatened by industries and deforestation, becoming extinct and bound to wither away.

The tension between knowledge and innocence informs most of the collection, with its focus on intricate tailoring and textural contrasts. A shawl-collared jacket unveils its detailed construction under a transparent veil of sheer fabric, emphasizing the dichotomy between sleek and rough, organic and refined.

Exposing the underpinnings of garments, Jacquemyn’s approach advocates honesty instead of pretense, crafting a complex and delicate vision. Moving away from ubiquitous sportswear, the Belgian designer offers a new take on sophisticated dressing, experimental and urban at the same time.

Knitwear is sheer and unstructured, echoing natural forms and draping itself across the body. A sleeveless top features frayed edges, underlining the rawness and strength of constant survival.

Leather seems cracked and lived-in, smudged and greased for a dirty effect. Buttons are visible on a pair of loose-fitting pants, tapered at the ankle for a bolder shape.

A discontinued line -inspired by the Ecuador’s Tsachila people-pops up on several items, giving us another insight into the twists and turns encountered by the tribes. The passage of time as well as the singular destinies of these isolated men-resonate within the designer’s work, using an installation format to showcase his clothes, reconciling for a while victims and assailants.

For the first time this season, Jacquemyn introduces womenswear within his line, responding to an ongoing demand from several clients. Adapted to the female body, key shapes are offered to fit the needs of different women, with a focus on suiting and sharp cuts. Working with noble materials, such as leather, linen, cotton and silk, the collection keeps its sensual edge, underlining the tactile nature of Jacquemyn’s garments.

Philippe Pourhashemi