For Autumn/Winter 2015, Jean Claude Jitrois pays tribute to Paris’ answer to the legendary Studio 54, Palace, in it’s heyday during the late 1970’s and early 1980’s.
Entitled “Lucid Wonderland” the collection takes inspiration from the intoxicating world of the wild party girls who frequented The Palace; who, with their relentless charisma and impeccable looks, blurred the line between effortless glamour and the rock, punk and disco movements of the era.
Looking to muses such as Amanda Lear, Jerry Hall and Grace Jones; the collection features 1970’s inspired trapeze cut dresses and mini skirts constructed in stretch velvet and lambskin and brought to life with Pop Art inspired floral or animal leather embroidery and accented with Swarovski crystals.
The 1970’s silhouette is explored further through tunics worn over flared stretch leather pants, floor length coats and signature catsuits with ultra plunging necklines.
Shirting plays a central role in the collection and is presented in a variety of forms, from embellished silk pussy bow shirts and dresses to stretch leather shirts and suede shirt dresses.
Outerwear this season is transformed into dresses and vice versa – jackets and coats are belted and paired with hot pants to further blur the line between outer and innerwear. Jackets are structured yet soft, sporty and cropped and a reinvented biker jacket – the ‘Rider Trois’ – is presented in red and features a fox fur collar.
Central to the House of Jitrois; innovation is more than ever at the forefront of the creative process for
AW15, with bonded neoprene and leather coats and lamb velvet textured dresses key to the collection. The Minoray technique – a signature Jitrois process – sees leather strips embroidered on silk organza that move with the body and play with the senses.
The colour palette for is made up of deep purples, blood reds, burnt oranges, caramel and espresso browns, contrasted with forest greens, crisp whites and frosted blues in stretch lambskin and suede. Graphical python is featured in a mix of blues, purples and black and furs include golden fox, black mink and natural chinchilla.
For prints, Monsieur Jitrois looked both to Pop-Art and Op-Art to inspire bold but feminine pieces with a
body-conscious emphasis on movement. Inspired by French Op-Artist Victor Vasarely’s ‘zebra’ pieces, Jean Claude set out to create a bespoke abstract animal print made up of bold, jagged shapes that snake around the wearer’s body.
A second key print features bold, poppy flowers embroidered in stretch suede to create graphic yet soft pieces. Jean Claude mixes the traditional embroideries of Dentelles with graphic futuristic grids and triangles while contrast hand stitching features as detailing to raw cut garments for an artisanal approach.
This winter the Jitrois woman is fearless and bold with a delightfully cheeky glint in her eye – subtle Parisian elegance, ease and sensuality.
Photos courtesy of Jitrois