NEW YORK, July 11, 2016/ FW/ #NYFW:Men/ — For his Spring/Summer 2017 Collection, Perry Ellis Creative Director Michael Maccari is responding to the current social and political themes of globalization, cultural synthesis and diversity. In his own signature “Very Perry” way, he riffs, mixes and subverts with traditional menswear shapes, and collages with fabrics and prints.
“Each season we begin with something new,” says Maccari. “Sometimes our direction is extremely clear. This season, there are so many changes in the world, that we are embracing difference and new perspectives. Similar to the way Perry Ellis approached his first collections in the mid-70s, my collection is inspired by what’s going on right now.”
Departing from previous seasons’ reliance on classic American sportswear pieces, Maccari shifts his focus toward relaxed activewear, playing with oversized shapes and performance fabrics. The designer mixes activewear with suit separates, to create collages, both in shape and fabrication. He focuses on vivid botanical patterns overlaid with racing stripe-inspired graphic prints. These patterns are layered―one on top of the other―creating another mix of contrasting prints and textures.
Maccari notes that “the process of bringing conflicting ideas together is more valuable than the ideas alone. Collaging supports the thought that ideas in the abstract are as valuable as the end result, so I’m exploring this concept and how it affects our daily wardrobe choices.”
Maccari introduces new silhouettes to the Signature collection, including hybrid bomber/track jackets with extended collars, new iterations of joggers and camp shirts in more fluid fabrics. Updates to his tailored offering include various linen blends in wools and stretch fabrics; and performance fabrics have been incorporated into a number of transitional outerwear pieces as well.
In the spirit of change and contrast, Maccari eschews a traditional runway approach this season. Instead he stands his models in a stark, industrial space, backed by a floral collage; to focus on each of his distinct ideas. This transition from the traditional runway show further underscores his conviction that we are living in a new era; and our clothes, and how we wear them, will change with the times.
Photos by Eli Schmidt, courtesy of Perry Ellis