Azzaro Couture & Atelier Collections Spring 2020: The Dress and The Pants

Azzaro Couture & Atelier Collections Spring 2020

In an era wherein gender fluidity has become the byword, Azzaro bravely drew a line between women’s dressing and men’s dressing.

As it mentioned in its press notes, “the flamboyant sensuousness of the Azzaro female has stood the test of time, and this season the Brand celebrates the woman of this new world: a liberated, assertive epicurean Amazon who draws strength on her uniqueness.”

And for the men, Azzaro said, “the men’s wardrobe, driven by the same inspiration, echoes this new world with its flawless cuts.”

Azzaro Couture & Atelier Collections Spring 2020
Model wears an outfit , as part of the haute couture 2020, fashion week, Paris, France, from the house of Azzaro Couture

Yet, though there is a demarcation line, it did not mean that they did not borrow elements from each other. Wreathed in mystery, the designs cultivate a retro-futurist aesthetic where structure and movement are used to delineate plays on light and shadow, opacity and transparency, matte and shine.

Azzaro is known for its impeccable tailoring and this could easily be observed in the collection. The styling is relentless, the waistline high and nipped-in, the V-necks open and assertive, the sleeves low-cut.

For the women, the collection is feminine in its essence; the dress remains the key piece of this collection.

Long or extra-short, the dress is adorned with ruching, draping or sunray pleats, with cut-outs that subtly reveal the body’s curves, made more exquisite there with a zip and a constellation of beads and crystals.

This elegance also appears in the design of trousers, of which the legs are adorned with a succession of flounces or straight-cut black satin enhanced with pleats; or in the jewellery pieces, featuring irregular crystal stones.

The opacity of a long double-breasted coat in wool broadcloth and silky eco-fur interacts with the daintiness of diaphanous chiffon, mesh embroidered with crystals or aluminum-laminated leather.

The men’s wardrobe features incandescent lurex, straps embroidered with imaginary marine flora in beads and metal, celestial fringed embroideries, or jacquard featuring abstract patterns inspired by the moon’s relief, entirely embroidered with charcoal grey stones.

This collection travels between the past and the future in a new world where the attitude is liberated and the sophistication iconoclastic.

Photos courtesy of Azzaro