Photos courtesy of IFEMA
Lines of the collection:
Roberto Torretta creates garments of impeccable tailoring, which have been simplified to deliberately refine the shapes.
The shoulders are structured for jackets of different lengths, featuring a masculine but mild appeal, replete with flaps that fasten these clothing creations of exquisite finish … in accordance with a “made-to-measure” approach.
For trousers we come across three options: one that features a straight leg, exuberant, fluid and pleated at the waist; another offering a tighter silhouette (almost drainpipe), falling to just above the ankle; and a third style featuring an “elephant leg” appeal that is very 1960’s.
Roberto Torretta reworks and makes reference to haute couture methods and ideas from the 1960’s, but with a fresh approach: square cuts for outerwear, dresses with well-fitted waist; and lengths that go down to the knee or “mini” versions.
We also find overlapping fabrics of different weights and structures, a renewed “A” silhouette, with tighter formats for evening dresses, and elegant “décolleté” necklines, not to mention pleated skirts and volumes that are always based on “mini” formats.
In short: a modern silhouette that is similar to a “ladylike” look.
Regarding the choice of fabrics, the designer is immovable: quality, tradition and modernity.
With these three concepts as a starting- point, the die is cast: compact fabrics with magnificent plain textures such as double woolen cloth or silk crêpe that is heavier for winter, in black, dark green (“cavernous green”) and stony beige.
The designer also employs tailoring fabrics in black and white, such as cheviot and cold wool featuring woven “Eiffel” stripes; “Jacquard” wool, in all-over creamy, vanilla and coal finishes; double cotton Vichy black and green; white poplin; black “plumeti” and “rapture” pink for fabrics with a silk satin effect; micro mesh in bright red “chili” shades; and bulky fabrics in intense “plum” tones.
And finally: leather, a material that Roberto Torretta never betrays. Smooth leather of “brandy wine” colour and his trademark material, black leather. Fur: black nubuck and cropped nubuck for coats and dresses.
The collection sets up an aesthetic, elegant and seductive game, sometimes androgynous and qualified by a 1960’s couture look. These are the key points of the Roberto Torretta Collection for Winter 2014-15.