Two style-changing epochs from the twentieth century are once again providing the inspiration for ODEEH’s No. 10 collection for autumn/winter 2014.
Reminiscences of the Wiener Werkstätte “(Vienna’s Workshops), a production community of visual artists in Vienna established in 1903,” blend with references to the modern art of the sixties.
Floral patterns meet strict linearity, understated simplicity and urban elegance. The “Made in Germany” seal is fully justified here – a new benchmark is being set in terms of value and craftsmanship, in cooperation with the best weavers of Northern Italy, and produced in Germany’s most excellent workshops.
The clarity of the lines and structures is consistent throughout. Opulence can be found in the abstract interpretations of myriad materials and patterns: soft alpaca and mohair plush make an appearance, as well as quilted jerseys with relief structures, pop-art silk prints and metallic brocades.
In this way a rich palette of materials and textures is combined, creating an exciting dynamic. The coats and caban jackets come in blurred, almost monochrome checks or felted pepita patterns.
Sketched diamond patterns, woven patterns, fil coupés and macro structures are also present throughout the whole collection – a potpourri-like composition of diverse materials. The fabrics also stand out with large-format, stylised floral prints and jacquards with graphic patterns.
Generous volume and layering effects take the opulent choice of materials up a notch into the three-dimensional realm: elaborate skirts in bell shapes or with pleats are paired with voluminous sweatshirt silhouettes.
Retro elements of sporty alpine winterwear from bygone days are reinterpreted with a feminine and urban twist – oversized, urban and contemporary. A masculine, linear silhouette is softened with feminine elements like brocades, floral designs and the use of soft fur-inspired materials. Details like chunky gold zippers ensure a glamorous yet sporty look.
Overall, the rich colour palette is unostentatious, playfully reprising the colours of the Wiener Werkstätte and sixties’ modern art: burgundy nuances, pastel rosewood and copper tones reference the interiors of the early 20th century.
Contrasting this are cool modern tones like navy, indigo, military greens and flannel greys as well as a clear winter white. The colour palette is sporadically broken up with a delicate pastel pink, which adds sophisticated accents.
Collection No.10 is characterised by reduction, exquisite detailing and atelier art at its best –thereby illustrating the very substance of ODEEH as a label.
Photos courtesy of Odeeh